Wales. The Place Where Dragons Live
Why is Wales called the land of dragons and the Welsh not English? And where to touch modern Welsh culture this spring and summer?
The Red Dragon — symbol of Wales
Once a young wizard Merlin warned the ruler Vortigern that the place he had chosen for his castle was right above an underground lake where two dragons slept.
Vortigern decided to test the wizard’s words and ordered his men to dig. When the order was carried out, the ground exposed the red and white dragons. Once awakened, they began a bloodthirsty fight. The red dragon won. It is said that he was the one who symbolized the people of Vortigern. Geoffrey of Monmouth, the famous priest and writer who laid the foundations of the Arthurian tradition, deciphered the red dragon symbol as a prophecy that the great King Arthur would come soon.
Interestingly, the name of King Arthur’s father, Uther Pendragon, translates as «the head of the dragon». And by the way the Celts had a special tradition associated with heads. In Welsh mythology special attention is paid to the king of Britain — Bran the Blessed. Bran ordered his head to be buried after his death in what is now the Tower of London. The legend says that as long as his head rests there, no war or hardship will befall the British land. And those who brought hardship to the Celts, they cut off the heads, hung them on horses or decorated the entrance to their house. They believed that the soul lived in the head. A beheaded enemy — hundred percent confidence that he would never come back to life again and disturb the victor.
National Identity
The Welsh are the ancestors of the Celts, whose diverse tribes came from Western Europe and settled in what is now Great Britain in the beginning of the Iron Age. Gradually the tribes merged into one and settled in the land of Wales. However, they did not expect a quiet life. First the Roman Empire infiltrated them and gained unquestioning authority over them, then the Irish pirates invaded, and finally the Normans.
The Normans consolidated their dominance over time, integrating into the environment through intermarriage alliances and castle building. The very last chord was the incorporation of Wales into the British Empire. The Welsh people have been under its protectorate ever since. And, as is evident today, no independence for Wales is to be expected. The only thing they were allowed half a century ago was to speak Welsh in order to preserve the linguistic heritage and to have their own television channel in their native language.
Perhaps this was a kind of apology for the oppression of the Welsh language. In the 19th century, it was eradicated very mercilessly. Schoolteachers hung derogatory «WN» (Welsh not) signs around children’s necks. This was the punishment for anyone who dared to speak Welsh. Then the perpetrator had to «pass the baton» and hang a «WN» on a child who spoke inappropriately. Who ended up with that plaque at the end of the day was punished with a good old-fashioned flogging.
Obviously, after such a tense history, the Welsh should not be called English. Over the centuries, while struggling with neighboring cultures, they developed their own national identity based on ancient Celtic culture. And they have tried with great trepidation to surround it with proper attention. Preserving the ancient Welsh language certainly supports and unites the Welsh. Stories and especially poetry continue to be passed from mouth to mouth, they and their spirit are expressed in music, daily life and in the atmosphere of the annual national festivals.
Where to experience contemporary Welsh culture?
Eisteddfod Festival
The National Eisteddfod is Wales’ premier festival celebrating culture and language. It has been held since 1861 during the first week of August. The festival is always in flux and takes place either in the North Wales area or in the South Wales side. This loud and large-scale event attracts about 150,000 visitors. Among them can be found celebrities, leading writers, poets and musicians of Wales.
Eisteddfod embraces all the possible arts: music, dance, visual arts, literature, performances. It’s an inclusive and welcoming festival for aspiring Welsh speakers. If you don’t speak Welsh, you can use an interpreter and bilingual information in a special pavilion.
Eisteddfod is a mobile Welsh regeneration project. People of all ages and status are drawn here, not just from Wales, but from all over the UK. And everyone has the opportunity to volunteer and help prepare for the festival, strengthening Welsh culture, albeit in a small but powerful way.
Hay Literary Festival
Bill Clinton called Hay the “Woodstock of the Mind,” and to British politician Tony Benn it replaced Christmas.
Hay is among the leading festivals of literature and the arts. Celebrities such as Neil Gaiman and Stephen Fry, Nobel laureates, scientists, politicians, historians, environmentalists, musicians, artists, and writers have performed here. A global dialogue is created between all participants and viewers, with each side sharing their experiences in the arts and sciences. Through such outreach and educational activities, Hay changes the minds of all present and inspires young writers and the cultural public.
The festival runs for 10 days from late May to early June in Hay-on-Wye.
